Sumbu National Park, Lake Tanganyika, Zambia

Fantastical Lake Tanzania

Every good fairytale has both fearful and enchanting elements and Zambia's Sumbu national Park has both in abundance. The park includes part of Lake Tanganyika and the big bad wolf has nothing on the monstrous Nile crocodiles that cruise the warm shallows and sunbathe on the riverbanks. When one of these six-metre giants gives you the prehistoric eye, your shiver of fear is as automatic as his instinct to kill.

The bewitching part of the story is found in a confetti cloud of butterflies rising from the shore in a soft focus dream. Around a dozen different species waft in a haze of luminous blues, paper-whites, startling yellow, outrageous black and white polka dots and large paint-by-numbers swallowtails.

A Sea without Salt

Sumbu National Park lies on the western edge of Zambia's section of Lake Tanganyika - at 677km the longest lake in the world. Four countries fringe its waters; Burundi in the far north, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) to the west, and Zambia and Tanzania flanking the south and east. Lake Tanganyika bears most of the qualities of a sea except salty water. Storms can produce waves 6-metres high and torrential downpours can unleash 100mm of rain in 24 hours. At the opposite extreme it can turn into a flat expanse of molten silver, joining seamlessly with the monotone sky.

Lake is Bulging with Fish

The lake is positively bulging with fish - both the types found in aquariums and on your plate - although fishermen complain that the lake's abundance is not what it used to be. Still, there are over 200 types of shining chichlids, which may be collected by divers for export. In a sedated haze in highly oxygenated bags, the fish are jetted off to European and American collectors.

Some like the stripy Frontosa are big enough to eat, but Nkupi makes a more substantial meal. The huge Nile Perch lurking in the waters over 100m deep are still nowhere near the bottom of this Rift Valley lake. At 1,470 metres, it is the second deepest lake in the world after Lake Baikal in Russia. Fighting against a 20kg Nile Perch is a challenge that attracts sport fishermen world-wide.